ALPAMAYO
5947 msnm
Technical climbing for experienced climbers
Alpamayo represents the pinnacle of technical mountaineering in the Cordillera Blanca. Its perfectly defined ice couloirs and consistent incline demand experience, precision, and sound decision-making. It is not a mountain to be traversed; it is a route to be climbed with discernment and character. A summit reserved for those seeking true challenge and excellence in mountaineering.
itinerary
Huaraz – Cashapampa – Llamacorral
We will depart from Huaraz at 7:00 am and follow the route north through the Callejón de Huaylas until we reach Cashapampa, at an altitude of 2900 m. There we will begin our hike, which will last approximately 4 to 5 hours. We will spend the first night at the Llamacoral Camp, at an altitude of 3760 m.
Llamacorral – Campo Base Arhueycocha
We will begin the 5-6 hour trek through the ravine, visiting the Jatuncocha Lagoon, then we will ascend to the Arhuaycocha Ravine, from there we will head to the Alpamayo Base Camp, at 4300 m altitude where we will have dinner and rest.
Campo base – Campo morrena
This day we will change the transport of our belongings from donkeys to porters, then we will climb for approximately 3 hours along a rocky path until we reach the Moraine Field, where we will enjoy splendid views of the mountains Artesonraju (6025 m), Paria (5519 m), Pucajirca (6046 m) and the Arhuaycocha lagoon (4500 m).
Campamento Morrena (4.800 m) – Campamento Alto Alpamayo (5.500)
Today is important as we move closer to our goal. We'll start very early. After breakfast, personal hygiene, and loading our gear, we'll begin our approach to the Alpamayo high camp. The porters are responsible for carrying the camping equipment. We continued our ascent across moraine sections until we reached the glacier. Once there, we equipped ourselves with the necessary gear: harness, mountaineering boots, helmet, crampons, and an ice axe. The guides were responsible for roped-up climbing to ensure a safe arrival at our camp. After traversing the glacier, we reached a short climbing wall that led us to high camp.
During sunset you can enjoy the setting sun and its reflection on the Alpamayo climbing wall. Finalmente, llegada nuestra hora de la cena, nos alimentaremos y descansaremos para continuar con la jornada del día siguiente.
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Campamento alto – Cumbre – Campo alto
The day begins at 11:00 PM. After preparing our equipment, we will begin the climb, approaching the wall and crossing the bergschrund. At 5300 meters above sea level, we will then proceed up the wall, following either the 500-meter French Direct route (70-80°) or the Ferrari route (depending on the wall's condition and the season), near the summit, until we reach the pyramidal peak of Alpamayo at 5947 meters. From there we will have spectacular views of lagoons and snow-capped mountains. After enjoying the scenery and regaining some energy, we will descend the wall with rappels to return to the high camp. We will have dinner and rest. This is the longest day (14-16 hours of activity).
Campamento alto – Campamento Base Arhueycocha
After breakfast and taking down our tents, we will continue the descent with rappelling and hiking for 6 to 8 hours to the Alpamayo Base Camp, where we will rest and have dinner at about 4300 meters above sea level.
Campo Base Arhueycocha – Cashapampa – Huaraz
This day will be the descent, we will walk through the Arhuaycocha Valley, descending through the Santa Cruz ravine to Cashapampa for 7 to 8 hours – 2900 meters above sea level, from here the trip will be by car to Huaraz.
- This plan is designed for the technical route to Alpamayo. We suggest a gradual acclimatization beforehand to ensure you reach your final goal. To guarantee this acclimatization, we've designed a 5-day plan with an initial ascent above 4000 meters at Laguna Churup, followed by a short climb on a technical wall at Ulta Chico. There, you'll consolidate your ice climbing skills, before climbing Yanapaccha as the final mountain of this acclimatization plan. This climb consists of 3 pitches totaling 180 meters of intermediate difficulty on a 60° ice wall.
If you wish to take the acclimatization plan with us, we offer a reduced price from the commercial value; this is $900 USD
We will share the details of the acclimatization plan once we confirm acceptance of this quote.
- It is also valid to acclimatize on your own; the most important thing is to have a prior acclimatization plan (climbing above 5000 meters above sea level).
- Please note that dates can be customized and scheduled at the client's request with minimum groups of 2 people.
- In case people do not have the appropriate clothing for the expeditions, the Espeletia Expedition team provides a "guide" document as advice on obtaining the necessary items, or if they prefer, they can take our [guide/property/etc.]. rental service.
- Please take into account all the suggestions that will be shared on the day of booking the expedition, and two months prior we will hold a virtual meeting.
- For these mountains, you need to have basic personal equipment: sleeping bag and double boots (if you don't have these items, we have a rental service in Huaraz)
- 1 Internationally certified climbing and mountain guide.
- Private transport round trip from Huaraz to the starting areas of the mountain climbs (round trip)
- Technical equipment: technical ice axes, crampons, harness and helmet.
- Food: 7 breakfasts, 7 lunches, 6 dinners and hot drinks.
- Camping equipment: two-person tent, kitchen tent, cooking utensils.
- Porters
- Donkeys
- High mountain chef
- satellite communication
- water filtration
Airline tickets, hotel prior to departure, food or services not specified.
INVERSIÓN
2300 USD
Individual price (applies to a minimum group of 3 people).






